Remove Parts
Parts Removed
|
Step One
Remove
parts
Wheels,
fender guards, plastic parts, etc. are removed to clean the dirt and
remove the rust. Note the smooth gray areas in the wheel well versus
the "bumpy" surface just above and behind the disc brake
(the brown disk). The incomplete factory treated (bumpy) surface covers
only about one fourth of the wheel well, and the smooth areas have
never been protected. Only about 30% of a typical car has even the
slightest factory rust protection; some causes of this factory failing
are the automated robot application system and "economy"
of sparse treatment.
Note: In
the bottom photo, the car has already been cleaned, and the rust removed
to show the extent of factory rust protection. All silver/gray areas,
including the shock absorber and frame, were rusty because of the
incomplete factory rust protection! |
High-pressure cleaning
|
Step Two
Cleaning
Dirt, road salt, sand, mud, etc. are blasted away with hot water from
a high pressure cleaning machine (at times even with 120°C steam!)
in a cloud of vapor.
This thorough cleaning is done in places the owner cannot see, and normally
never considers (clumps of mud behind plastic protective coverings,
e.g. in the wheel well).
Note:
A car should always be thoroughly cleaned,
and rust removed (see Step 3!), then
rapidly dried before priming
& rust treatment (Steps 4 & 5). |
Before
Half completed
After
Diamond drill
|
Step Three
Rust Removal!
Method
1: High pressure sandblasting
Before sandblasting
(top photo):
The top photo was taken just after cleaning the dirt and grime, before
sandblasting. Note the extensive rust... this
is only a six year old Mazda 626!
Halfway through sandblasting:
The top part is stripped of the deep rust, and the rust pits can be
seen. Rust pits are places where metal has been lost to corrosion, and
weakens the remaining metal structure. In some cases, especially with
thinner metals like brake covers and underbody attachments, the metal
can become paper-thin or even be completely destroyed.
After sandblasting:
Note that the metal is clean and ready for bonding
& the dangerous rust is removed!
Note 1:
It
can take more than a day, and six or seven sacks of brand new, special
blasting sand to remove rust from an average car like this one.
Note 2: Even
though the metal is now cleaned and will soon be protected from further
rust with special paint and protectant, the pitting and deterioration that
has occurred thus far is permanent.
Method 2: Mechanical Removal
Diamond drill:
Mechanical
methods (such as diamond drills, steel wire brushes, and high speed
pneumatic tools) are also used to remove rust, particularly in areas
near visible car finish, or deep corrosion.
Note:
Rust should be removed from metal, before priming paint and Rust Protection
is applied. This step is not necessary if the car
is rust free; rust removal is a separate cost. However, many companies
actually refuse to ever clean and remove rust, which
is one reason they cannot offer a long-term, ironclad warranty, such
as our 10-year Guaranty. |
Priming
Left rear suspension (looking back)
|
Step Four
Apply
Yellow & Brown Primer Paint
After the car is cleaned, the rust is removed, and the car thoroughly
dried, special 3-part primer and paint
is applied to seal, bond, and protect metals.
Note:
Primer is not necessary if the car is in new, rust-free
condition. |
Thin Protectant
Underbody first layer of rust protection
|
Step Five
Apply
penetrating protection
As
an independent company, we can choose any
rust protectant in the world... we have tested and compared all
protectants available in Sweden. Simply put, we choose to offer premium products because your auto investment is worth it!
Rust must be prevented inside doors and inside
the car's steel frame. Penetrating (thin) protectant is used inside the
frame, hood, trunk, doors, and on all underbody surfaces. Access holes
are used (and no, we don't drill holes in your
car, like some companies do), with a special 2 meter applicator
to reach these places which are sometimes overlooked others (see
News).
|
Thick Protectant
|
Step Six
Apply
outer protection
This is the front-line protection
to save your car from the punishing road conditions that constantly
attack your vehicle. Quality protectant is one of the reasons we can
offer our 10-year Warranty on all
cars we fully treat.
After
the first layer of penetrating (thin) protectant, three more
layers of heavy (thick) protectant are applied from 3 different
directions... this eliminates the areas missed by spray "shadows"
which often plague other companies. Our 4 layers are another reason
we can offer the best warranty, bar
none! Many customers report a noticeable
reduction in road noise, too. |