|
|
|
1970-1980
|
| |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
Models manufactured from 1970 until 1980 always carry the VIN number on both the frame and the engine crankcases. The first 2 letters or digits correspond to the model number, and the last 2 are a short code for the year |
|
Ref
1A
1H
1K
2A
2C
2F
2H
|
Model
FL 1200
FXB 80
FLH 80
FLH 1200
FX 1200
FXS 1200
CLE 80
|
Year
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
|
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
|
|
Ref
3G
3H
5E
5G
5H
6E
6G
|
Model
FLH 80
FLH 80Classic
FXEF1200
FLT
FLHS 80
FX EF 80
FXE 80 |
Year
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980 |
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
5 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
|
|
Ref
6H
7G
7H
8H
9D
9G
9H
|
Model
FL 80
FXS 80
FLH 1200¥
FLH 1200€
FXE 1200
FXWG 80
FLH 80¥
|
Year
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980
1970-1980 |
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
|
|
¥ = Police Model
€ = Shrine Model
|
|
1981-1999
From 1981 onwards the complete VIN Number is only on the frame, an abbreviated version is attached to the crankcase. The 5th and 6th characters of the VIN Number (1st and 2nd of the Engine Number) indicate the model. The 10th Character of the VIN Number (4th Engine Number) shows the year of manufacture. |
| |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Ref
AA
AB
AC
AE
AF
AH
AK
AL
BA
BB
BC
BD
BE
BF
BG
BH
BH
BJ
BK
BK
BL
BM
BN
BP
BR
|
Model
FLH 80
FLH 80
FLH 80
FLT
FLTC
FLHP 80
FLHS 80
FLH 80
FXE 80
FXEF 80
FXS 80
FXB 80
FXWG 80
FXSB 80
FXDG 80
FXST
FXST
FLSTC
FXSTC
FXSTC
FXSTS
FLSTF
FLSTN
FXSTSB
FLSTS
|
Year
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981
1982
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1981-1985
1982-1999
1982-1999
1981-1985
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999 |
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
4 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
4 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
|
|
Ref
BS
BT
DA
DB
DC
DD
DE
DF
DG
DH
DJ
DK
DM
DP
EA
EB
EC
ED
EF
EG
EH
EJ
EK
EL
EM
|
Model
FXSTD
FXSTB
FLHTP¥
FLTC
FLHT
FLHT
FLHTC
FLHTP¥
FLHTC€
FLTC
FLHTC
FLTC€
FLTCU
FLHTCU
FXR
FXRS
FXRT
FXRP¥
FXRP¥
FXRS SP¥
FXRD
FXRC
FXRP©
FXLR
FXLR Convert |
Year
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999 |
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
|
|
Ref
FA
FB
FC
FD
FE
FF
FG
FH
FJ
FL
FM
FN
FP
FR
FS
FT
GA
GB
GC
GD
GE
GG
GH
SG
SH
|
Model
FLHS
FLHRI
FLHTCUI
FLHR
FLTCUI
FLHTCI FLHTCUI
FLHPI¥
FLHP¥
FLHTCUI€
FLHTPI¥
FLHPE¥
FLTR
FLHRCI
FLTRI
FLHPEI©
FXDBD
FXDBS
FXDC
FXDL
FXDWG
FXDS Convert
FXD
TLE¥
RLE¥ |
Year
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999
1982-1999 |
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
5 Sp
|
|
¥ = Police Model
© =
CHiPs
€ = Shrine Model |
| Technote #1 |
|
28th Dec 1999 |
Subject: Evo 1340 Starter Contacts |
| If you have trouble with a 'lazy' starter
motor, then renewing the contacts is likely to resolve your problem. The
positive copper terminal is prone to corrosion. The terminal set is made
by Nippon Denso and is the same as the 1990 Toyota Corolla. You can save
a lot of money by ordering the part from a motor factor - eg S.A.S.
Motor Components on +44 (0) 1527 575502, part no 10103 or email
enquiries@sascomponents.co.uk |
---
The joy of old glides and starting probs,
I’ve had the opportunity to rebuild my 89 and found a few things out the hard
way…
If the starter relay or the handlebar Run switch
have been supplying lower than normal voltage, the starter relay AND the
starter solenoid can
get burned. The low voltage doesn't pull the plunger in and hold it, it kind of
bounces against the electromagnet, and the contact surface burns. Now, when
everything else might be okay, the starter won’t
work right. This can (over a long period of time) even happen if the rider does
not fully depress and hold the starter button on
the handlebar. Do the cheap things first: make sure your battery is fully
charged. Replace the starter relay, and see if
you can clean the contacts in the starter switch
itself (handle bar). Then try to start the bike (with the
starter that's in it now). If it cranks poorly,
or just clicks again, then you probably want to look at the leads to the
starter and the grounding strap from under the
primary.
You should also look at your manual and trace out a small single wire connector
in the fairing that supplies 12 volts to the starter
relay contact that applies power to the solenoid itself (not to be confused with
the 12 v that actuates the starter relay from the
starter switch). The HD connectors are such crap
(at least the old ones) that after a few years corrosion builds up and there is
actually a voltage drop at the connection and there isn't enough current to pull
the solinoid in all the way.
To test this out just disconnect the wire (see your manual schematic) that
supplies power to the sol. coil (normally open) and hit the button. If it works
then trace wire back to problem (all wires are coler coded). It could be just
the starter relay, but you said you already
replaced that.
If you still have the original circuit breakers they are *OLD* and replacing
them would be cheap insurance for any event. There are usually four thermal
breakers and they can rust and corrode internally. The value is 15 amp for those
up front and 30 amp for the main.... check your factory manual for your year.
After you get it up and running you should check your charging system out, I got
this off another forum and it’s a damn good way to do it…
TO CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM
The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and
the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up.
If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush
before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the
electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until
the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is
less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it
until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it
with a new one.
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get
started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With
your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +,
Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to
above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading,
usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If
voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due
to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not
charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate
the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter
to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off,
read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If
your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not
be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K.
Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or
a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the
same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is
shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should
consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not
shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With
the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity
sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should
read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine
it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no
output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper
output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK
but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the
regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just
make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct
unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the
regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement.
---
VARTA MOTORCYKEL STANDARD
- 520 012 020 3100Tillverkare: HARLEY DAVIDSON
Modell serie: 1340
Fordon: FLHT Series
kW/HK: 0 / 0
Från: 1980-01
till: 1996-01
Artikelnummer: 520 012 020 3100
Produktgrupp: MOTORCYKEL STANDARD
Volttal [V]: 12
Batteri kapacitet [Ah]: 20
Köldtestström EN [A]: 200
Längd [mm]: 207
Bredd [mm]: 92
Höjd [mm]: 164
Bottenklack: B00
Polordning : 0
Polordning:
Poltyp: 5
---
VARTA Batteries
12-volt batteries, Made in Germany. Batteries are their profession. Varta is the
leading OEM -supplier for the automobile industry.
Fits all 5-speed FLT, FLHT, FLHS and Road
King® models from 1980 thru 2003,
replaces OEM 66010-82